Tuesday, April 04, 2006

Talamanca and the BriBri Indigenous Reserve

Where we stayed - La Finca Educativa

After finishing the 446 book White Oleander and visiting the BriBri Indigenous reserve in the South of Costa Rica for a mere 3 days, I am different. How can I explain a dynamic and profound trip of traveling on 15 buses in 3 days with a student from my work? I accompanied this student because she is studying creation stories of indigenous peoples, and she needed help translating. Thus, we visited several BriBri communities and 2 Shaman brothers in the BriBri Indigenous Reserve.

If you want to, get out a map. We traveled to Limon on the Caribe Coast, then we traveled South through Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. Then we turned inland and passed through several Dole and Chiquita banana plantations. We changed buses in BriBri and finally made it to our lodging in Shiroles, where from there we visited Suretka and Amubri.

Obvisously the highlight of the trip was talking to 2 different Shamans that live several hours from each other.

The first Shaman explained a quick version of their creation story based on their God Sibu and their cosmic diamond-shaped world. Afterwards he explained their struggle to inform the youth of their traditional beliefs because the majority of the younger generations now believe in Catholicism and are not interested in Sibu. The Shaman explained their "clan" system which consists of being born into a destiny of responsibilities, or in other words, they are born into their jobs. Sadly enough, many of the clans have disappeared and are now totally lost because people have abandonded the traditional social roles and picked up "modern" jobs like spraying pestacide on the banana plants. The Shaman was visually sad as he shared his people's struggles to avoid termination, especially against the State's oppression, yet he managed to maintain an overwhelming energy of determination. He was magical and every word was like poetry that flowed from his soul with passion and complete belief.

The second Shaman lived in another town across the river, which I could easily compare to Ecuador's Amazon. We visited him in the community gathering house that is constructed according to their beliefs of the universe. Then we were invited to enter the sacred Cosmic House, which is made out of wood and straw, and it is shaped like a perfect triangle with 4 levels inside to represent the 4 stages of the universe. As we entered the ancient Cosmic House, I felt saturated in important energy and I could feel the essence of thousands of traditional ceremonies and rituals that have occured within that air-tight BriBri structure. This Shaman explained the rules of all the ceremonies in BriBri to his son, who in turn translated it into Spanish, which in turn I translated into English. He concluded telling us that they do not like to share this information with just anyone, because too many people abuse their belief system, so we should feel honored to receive a glimpse thier culture.

Being that the culture is totally orally based, and that many of the elders are dying, and the youth are not replacing their traditional social responsibilbities, the culture is in danger of disappearing. Already, there are no "singing" medicine men left. Without tangible documentation, their oral stories are just blowing in the wind.

The tall, green mountains are homes to 32 BriBri and 7 Cabecar (other tribe) communities, and only 15 have electricity.

How can I convey in a mass email how much wiser I am for visiting several indigenous communities and listening to 2 Shaman brothers? I feel sad and lost for those people. For me, their perspectives on life simply make sense to me, because they are so peaceful and generous and wise and giving. Those Shaman seem to know everything and I could feel their greatness, yet their people do not want spiritual guidance. Their ancestors are shadows.

When will the BriBri go where? Will their culture be lost?
For more pictures, click here please.

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